Flavours from the region: Garlic, Peppercorn, Hempseed

• 14 Jul, 2024
• Admin
• Products
• 221

In contrast to the present scenario, where distinct flavours like Garlic Salt, Peppercorn Salt, Hemp Seed Salt, Yellow Chilli Salt, and many others have established their popularity among customers, it was quite different in the past. Yogi reminisces, “Kisi ki maa ne lahsun pees diya, kisi ki maa ne mirch pees diya, kisi ne dhania-pudina pees diya… sab ko loon hi bolte the.” (“Someone’s mother would hand-grind rock salt with garlic, someone’s with chillies, and someone’s with coriander-mint... but it was all referred to as ‘loon,’ regardless of the flavour.”

I visited their store after a long and difficult journey from Delhi, battling motion sickness. Noticing my discomfort on arrival, Sandeep offered me a pinch of timur (peppercorn) salt and explained that its properties could alleviate my symptoms. It was a small but thoughtful gesture that made me feel instantly cared for. As we chatted, he also noticed my love for rajma and bhatt (black soybean) and generously offered me a few packets of their gandharni/chippi (Pleurospermum angelicoides) salt, known for its digestive benefits.

The origin story of pisyun loon is a subject of both fascination and speculation. One compelling story suggests that people in the hills ingeniously crafted these salts to combat the challenge of reduced water intake. In colder climates, people tend to drink less water; but consuming salt can induce thirst, and that’s how they became popular. Another theory proposes that pisyun loon gained popularity due to the remarkable health benefits associated with its ingredients. The herbs, spices, and rock salt offer digestive advantages and harnesses the overall wellness properties of rock salt, which made pisyun loon more than just a seasoning — it was a source of vitality and nourishment.

Many believe it was the child of harsh winter months — scarce food supplies and limited access to vegetables and dairy products. This compelled locals to preserve spices as flavoured salts. Like pickles, preserved during more productive seasons, these salts became invaluable companions to simple chapattis and parathas, elevating their taste and infusing them with flavour.

In 2009, except for Devendra, the men embarked on their first foray into the pisyun loon business. Their initial approach involved using a mixer grinder to produce larger quantities. Looking back, they chuckle at their beginner’s mistake: a focus on quantity over quality. Yogi reflects, “We didn’t research enough. We were unaware that this process would not just affect the taste but also reduce the shelf life of the salt.” The heat generated by the mixer grinder alters the texture and flavour of the rock salt and herbs; something the team hadn’t considered. Using this method, they could never replicate the texture, taste, and colour of the salt their mothers created at home. Sadly, the business didn’t succeed, and they shut shop within four to five months.

However, a persistent feeling that they could make it work continued to nag at them. They took the gamble again in the summer of 2013. This time, they had more favourable circumstances. Having worked with the Kumaon Mandal for some years, they had valuable connections in villages, especially women who could help them. Their association with KMVN also helped them clinch the lease deal for the store (earlier, the Tourist Information Centre) in Kakrighat at an affordable rent and for a longer term. The lease is renewed every five years now. Then, Devendra, with his own life experiences, was also ready to partner. Moreover, they gained insights into experimenting with different flavours. They set up Pahadi Peesi Noon as part of Himalayan Flavours and registered it as a not-for-profit organisation.

Proceeding with caution this time, they began work with small batches to keep the expenditure minimal. They only purchased a pair of sil-batta (stone grinder) and the essential raw materials like seasonal herbs and rock salt. Yogi warmly recalls Deepa Devi, Dhana Devi and Lata Devi as he says, “We had to bring these women from the village on board to make the salts. However, their salaries could only be paid after a month.” The women remain an integral part of the business.

“What have you done!”

Over the last eight years, Deepa Devi, 36, has been a constant presence in the team. Earlier, she worked on farms for daily wages. Now, she enjoys the stability of a steady income, and finds the work satisfying. “I never imagined that people would love our salt so much,” she laughs over the phone. Deepa’s mother used to make different blends of pisyun loon, but her generation has not been as regular: “We make it on special occasions and stock up the leftovers.”

The most fulfilling part of her job has been the sense of community and continuous learning. Deepa recalls the first time the team attempted to blend ginger and hempseeds. The women peeled the ginger, ground it with hempseeds and rock salt, and ended with chutney. Although the taste was passable, it couldn’t be sold as salt. After a few trials and errors, they learned to dehydrate the ginger on slow flame, lightly roast the seeds, and grind everything with salt.

The staff were hired at a salary of Rs. 3,500, one meal and a daily snack in 2013. Currently, there are 15 women on payroll, including Deepa, and 12 who work as part-timers. Some of their salaries have gone up to Rs. 10,000.

However, as is often the case with new business ideas, they faced criticism from sceptics who prophesied there would be no market for the product, and laughed at the concept. Despite this, they persevered. In October 2013, armed with stock worth Rs. 15,000 featuring six flavours in small packets of Rs. 10, they participated in an annual local fair, which spanned three days.

On the fair’s first day, a few customers, nostalgic about traditional recipes, visited their stall. Their emotional response was overwhelming. One of them exclaimed with delight, “What have you done!” For these customers, it symbolised an effort to preserve traditions in an era when modern appliances like mixer grinders were gradually replacing sil-batta in most homes. It was a deeply gratifying moment for the team, validating months of hard work. Word spread and people began queuing up to purchase the salts. Demand was so high, they had to work overtime. By the end of the third day, they had sold salts worth Rs. 30,000.

The local fair proved to be a turning point; it laid the foundation for future growth. However, their journey has not been linear. Twice over the years, their business suffered: once, due to local road construction and the diversion of tourists to alternate routes, reducing footfall at their store. Then there were multiple setbacks caused by the Covid-19 pandemic and subsequent lockdowns. The second wave of the pandemic proved particularly harsh, leading to the closure of five self-help groups, set up as manufacturing units in the nearby villages. Currently, they are manufacturing solely from the storefront.

It is important to note that while they were experimenting with different flavours, others with a similar passion for preserving traditional recipes engaged in similar pursuits. Now, pisyun loon has a legitimate market with more people seeking these speciality products. And a little healthy competition goes a long way.

During my visit to the store in early 2021, the team was engrossed in extensive research. This time, they focused on blending cashews, walnuts, and almonds with rock salt. On a shelf, a variety of small jars were meticulously arranged and labelled with their respective flavours and manufacturing dates.

Sandeep diligently tasted each one at five-minute intervals, observing for subtle changes in flavour that may have occurred in the past few days. He emphasised the importance of this process in understanding the product’s evolution over time while savouring the freshest batch of cashew salt. “All this knowledge has been gained through years of learning,” he remarked, offering me a taste of their hempseed salt, which has garnered a significant following across the country. The hempseeds’ grainy texture and nutty essence impart a distinctive taste.

Co-incidentally, during one of my visits to Nainital, I stopped by a newly-opened supermarket to refill my snacks. To my surprise, they had a huge stock of Pahadi Peesi Noon products. While browsing, I bumped into writer-actor Gopal Dutt, who was excitedly trying out different varieties of salt and raving about the flavours to his friend. He had even stocked up on their hempseed salt. He is just one of many enthusiastic customers.

Gaurav Gupta, a communication professional, has a delightful story to share. Growing up in Roorkee, a district in the plains of Uttarakhand, his family's travels were limited to visiting extended family members in Delhi, Muzzafarnagar, and Meerut. As a child, he only explored the hills of Mussoorie and Landsdowne with his friends, relishing baked goods and famous pancakes at Chaar Dukaan. "As kids, we were never interested in exploring local cuisines. We didn't even think it would be any different from ours," he admits.

In the late noughties, when Gaurav moved to Mumbai to work with a public relations upstart, he stayed in a company accommodation with two flatmates and a full-time cook and caretaker, Ashok. "For the five years that we stayed there, Ashok loved feeding us. He was from the Kumaoni village, Lohaghat — very hardworking and dedicated." Although the boys were least interested in cooking, they enjoyed Ashok's dishes, and Gaurav fondly remembers the taste of carrots, radishes, and cucumber slathered with spicy and freshly-ground salt and locally procured herbs. He had no idea about the elaborate preparations that went into the salt.

During the pandemic, when work slowed down, Gaurav had the opportunity to explore other areas of his home state. By chance, he stumbled upon the Pahadi Peesi Noon store in Kakdighat and was amazed by the variety of salts available. "That was also my first time delving deep into the state's culinary traditions and discovering that what Ashok was serving us for so many years is a staple," he says, a little embarrassed. He now regularly visits their Dehradun store, a few hours from his hometown, to purchase salts, especially Bhaangjeera (Perilla frutescens) and Jakhiya (Cleome viscosa/wild mustard) salts.

The team is now aggressively expanding its market reach. They supply their products to more than 800 retail stores and are available on popular online shopping platforms. The independent store in Dehradun has only solidified its presence.

The ongoing pursuit of innovation and refinement is a testament to their dedication to crafting flavours with an essence of their culinary heritage. The team’s focus has shifted away from documentation work and trekking, and their salt business has taken centre stage. In the financial year 2022-23, their business achieved remarkable success, generating a turnover of over a crore. Earlier this year, they also turned the company into a private limited organisation from a not-for-profit, to lend stronger direction. While their venture into salt blends with nuts is still gaining traction, traditional flavours such as garlic, chilli and hempseed continue to fly off the shelves.